Best of Boston

At this relative newcomer in North Cambridge, the presentation is so artful that you almost feel guilty (almost!) for polishing off the expertly cut and dressed Japanese sea bass, isaki, and kasago. Guess what? You’ll get over it. After all, chef Gary Lei, an Uni alum, highlights the freshest and most flavorful fish around, and mercifully, his multicourse experiences don’t come with the eye-popping prices attached to most omakase. See? Guilt vanquished.